3D Printing

This page holds information I've gathered while using a 3d printer.

Printers

Monoprice Maker Select V2

Product page: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13860

I believe that this printer delivers great quality for the price - so far it has consistently exceeded my expectations. Assembly and setup were painless, calibration was straightforward, and before I knew it I was up and running.

Specs

Build volume: 200mm x 200mm x 180mm
Resolution (layer height): 100 microns (0.1 mm)
Materials: ABS, PLA, XT Copolyester, PET, TPU, TPC, FPE, PVA, HIPS, Jelly, Foam, Felty
Filament diameter: 1.75mm
Max extruder temp: 500°F (260°C)
Data transfer: USB and microSD card

Print Settings

I primarily use Cura for slicing. I added the Maker Select V2 using the Prusa i3 printer profile, making sure to reduce the maximum Z height from 200mm to 180mm. Most of my printing is done in draft quality at 0.2mm layer height. I found that with the default settings, not only was I slightly annoyed with some quality issues, but I would also suffer plate adhesion problems. Changing from brim to raft type plate adhesion solved the latter problem entirely. For the quality issues, I found that reducing the print speed allowed me to get consistent, high-quality results. I've added the custom settings below.

Custom print settings:

• Print speed: 50mm/s
• Outer wall speed: 15mm/s
• Inner wall speed: 30mm/s
• Top/bottom speed: 20mm/s
• Travel speed: 80mm/s

Mods / Customization

The Maker Select V2 is a solid printer stock from the factory. But it's not without room for improvement.

• Z-Axis Braces
  • Braces that stiffen the Z-axis tower to prevent wobbling.
  • Thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948
• Z-Axis Extensions
  • Though the Maker Select V2 is said to have 180mm clearance in the Z-axis, the truth is it's about 143mm. These extension blocks make up for that difference.
  • Thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1444979
• Upgrade Y-Axis Carriage Plate
  • The factory carriage plate has been known to bend or warp easily as it's only made from thin stamped steel. Replacing it with a thicker aluminum plate will allow you to get a level print bed more quickly and easily.
  • Guide here: https://letsprint3d.net/2017/04/18/guide-replacing-y-carriage-plate
• Bed Leveling Spring Cups
  • These small cups help to keep the springs that hold the print bed up in alignment, making for a bed that isn't easily shifted around.
  • Thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1585045
• Upgrade Fan Ducting
  • This design allows for better airflow. The end result is higher-quality prints.

Gallery

Here's some of the prints I've made.

• 

  A failed Yoda print. You can see the infill grid in the space left open at the top, and the brim around the bottom edge.
  Thingiverse
  (PLA, 0.2mm layer height, 10% infill)

• 

  A cup made to look like Bender's head is in the middle of printing. You can see the infill grid in the space left open and the raft underneath.
  Thingiverse
  (PLA, 0.2mm layer height, 10% infill)

• 

  A black cat head planter. This print was made with 100% infill, so it's solid plastic.
  Thingiverse
  (PLA, 0.2mm layer height, 100% infill)

• 

  A human skull. The model that this was printed from came from a 3d scan of a real human skull.
  Thingiverse
  (PLA, 0.2mm layer height, 10% infill)

• 

  It's Banzai Bill! This was assembled from three different prints (one for each color). It went together easily and looks great!
  MyMiniFactory
  (PLA, 0.2mm layer height, 10% infill)